„Putujuci Glumac“ Tavern

Where the soul and belly thrive

”Skadarlija is a wonderfully unforgettable tale of Belgrade, where many of the world’s greatest artists spent their waking hours.”

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It is in the heart of Skadarlija, a bohemian quarter famous among artists and regular folk alike, right on the corner of Gospodar Jevremova Street which connects the Kalemegdan fortress to the Skadar row of houses, some more than a century old, in a sort of time capsule, is the Putujuci Glumac (Traveling Actor) tavern.

Even though Skadarlija has gained a number of new and foreign influenced bars, pubs and pizzerias, the truly authentic charm of old stone pavements, live music that enthralls the soul and good wine combined with the best national cuisine can be found right in this tavern.

To get inside, you must take the stone staircase, reminiscing of wine cellars in old castles. The true beauty of course, lies hidden within. The walls made of stone and brick are wonderfully decorated with paintings made in various styles. The wooden roof along with the dimed lights gives this place a soothing, family feel to it. It is the perfect place to have a meal with your loved ones, or to share a bottle of fine wine with your friends at. Even a relaxed lunch with your business partners would not be out of place here.

The balcony is in use all year round and that is where you will find the musicians playing old Belgrade songs. If you are lucky, you may even come across an old type of entertainer who will gladly sing with you and if you ask nicely, maybe even sit at your table for a bit.  This is the place where the old saying that the best friends are made in taverns, certainly rings true.

That kind of atmosphere. along with the friendliest and highly professional staff is what awaits you here. Add a bit of that old town magic to your life at one of Skadarlijas best taverns, the Putujuci Glumac.

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And now Adio!

Kafana Tri šešira

The ”TRI ŠEŠIRA”(Three Hats) tavern – a retreat for the bohemian soul

There are few places in Belgrade that hold the same long tradition and authenticity as the ”Tri Sesira” tavern. It is know far and wide for its hospitality; a fenomenal place where you can enjoy traditional cuisine and have a shot or two of the famous Serbian rakia, all the while listening to the sounds of the tambura, a stringed instrument similar to the mandolin, and typical for these parts. As if that’s not enough to pique your interest, just remember that this tavern was a hotspot for many of Belgrades finest painters and writers; you could say that its guestbook is a unique journal, giving you a glimpse into the lives of some fascinating individuals.

To fully understand the atmosphere of the ”Tri Sesira” we have to go back to its begginings in 1864. Before the tavern was opened, this was the location of a sugar factory that had, at its entrance , three hats made of thin sheets of metal. Once the factory was closed, the newly opened tavern was named after the hats. After the then popular tavern “Dardaneli” was closed, “Tri Sesira” became the new local favorite, attracting a wider public. One of the earliest regulars was the famous writer and painter Djura Jaksic, who called the tavern “a fountainhead of good wine”. This was the birthplace of some of his poems, describing the bohemian lifestyle. A loose translation of one of them goes like this:

One more smoke, one more glass,

One more song and one more lass!

Then farewell, my tambura player!

Farewell tavern mine, forever.

This tavern was also the place where, in 1904 the birth of the newspaper “Politika” was celebrated by its founders, many of whom were regular guests of the bohemian quarter Skadarlija. According to local stories, famous people like Milovan Glisic and Janko Veselinovic, would sit in the tavern and entertain the other guests with their quick wit. The writer Stevan Sremac was said to have written about the daily lives of the Serbian people, right here, from one of the tables in the tavern. Notable women of the time were also regulars, such as the famous painter Nadezda Petrovic, who would often bring her friends around, to discuss art, new projects, or just life in general. The phrase “And so, little by little, my youth moves on…” could be heard from many.

The tavern, then and now

The tavern was first owned by a widow named Kata, who inherited it from her husband. The most famous owner, however, was Stojan Krstic with his wife Natalija, whose hospitality to all of their guests was so great, that it is remembered to this day. The owner Stojan enjoyed the company of artists so much that he often not only prepared feasts in their honor, but also helped them out financially when they needed it.

“Tri Sesira” then

In modern Belgrade “Tri Sesira” has managed to keep its old flare and survive, despite the many taverns that have tried to copy its atmosphere. It has been called the place with the best food, many times over, a place where if you try its traditional cuisine, you are sure to return.

“Tri Sesira” now

With “MY GUIDE” you get a free medovaca or a dessert if you have lunch or dinner here with your friends. The offer is valid for a party of 2 to 6 persons.